Racing Pedal Tester
Pedals that don't read 0% at rest or never reach 100% cost you time: a throttle that never fully opens, or a brake that's slightly on all the time. This tester shows each pedal's travel live and works out the deadzones you need to set in your racing game.
It works with any pedal set your browser detects, whether it's built into a wheel or connects on its own.
Racing Pedal & Axis Calibrator
Inspect throttle, brake and clutch travel percentages, calculate deadzones and detect split/combined axes.
How to use it
- Connect your wheel and pedals and press a button or pedal so the page detects them.
- Leave all pedals released for three seconds.
- Press each pedal slowly all the way down and release it, one at a time.
- Read each pedal's resting value, maximum value and suggested deadzones.
- Enter those deadzones in your game's pedal or controller settings.
What your results mean
What the numbers mean:
Reading Healthy If not
At rest 0% Set a lower deadzone to remove the small reading
Fully pressed 100% Set an upper deadzone (saturation) so full press reaches 100%
Travel Smooth, no jumps Clean or replace the pedal's sensor
Combined or separate axes
Mode What it means
Separate axes Each pedal has its own axis. Best for most PC racing games.
Combined axis Throttle and brake share one axis, so pressing both cancels out. Mainly for older games.
If your wheel's software has a pedal mode setting, separate axes is usually the right choice for modern games.
Why pedal readings drift
Most pedals measure travel with a sensor that moves as you press. Over time sensors wear, springs relax and mounts loosen, so a pedal can stop reading exactly 0% at rest or 100% when fully pressed.
Deadzones fix this in the game: a small lower deadzone removes the reading at rest, and an upper one makes sure a full press counts as 100%.
Types of pedal sensor
Pedals measure your press in different ways, and that changes what you should expect to see. Potentiometer pedals measure how far the pedal moves using a sliding contact. Hall effect pedals measure movement using a magnet, so there's no contact to wear. Load cell brakes measure how hard you press, not how far, which is closer to how a real brake works.
Knowing which type you have helps you read the results. A load cell brake may only reach 100% with a very firm push, which is normal.
Sensor type Measures Common issues
Potentiometer How far you press Wear, dead spots, jitter
Hall effect How far you press Rare; mostly loose magnets or cables
Load cell How hard you press Needs firm press to reach 100%
Combined and separate pedal axes
Some older wheels can report the accelerator and brake as one combined axis, where the accelerator moves it one way and the brake the other. In that mode, pressing both together cancels out, which makes trail braking and heel-and-toe impossible.
Most modern games expect separate axes. If your pedals show as one combined axis here, look in the wheel's software or settings for an option to separate them.
Finding dead spots
Press each pedal very slowly from rest to the floor. The percentage should rise smoothly all the way. If it pauses, jumps or drops back briefly at one point, there's a dead spot there, usually where the pedal spends most of its time, so the sensor has worn at that position.
Dead spots make throttle and brake control inconsistent. Cleaning a potentiometer can sometimes help, but upgrading to Hall effect or load cell sensors fixes it for good.
Setting deadzones from your results
Use the numbers this test shows to set deadzones in your game. If the pedal reads 2% at rest, set a lower deadzone just above that, so the car doesn't creep. If it only reaches 96% when fully pressed, set an upper deadzone so 96% counts as full.
Keep both as small as possible. Every bit of deadzone removes some of the pedal's travel, so oversized deadzones make the pedal feel less precise.
Clutch pedals
A clutch pedal works like the others but is often used less, so its sensor can stay in good shape for longer. Test it the same way: smooth from rest to full, steady at rest, and reaching 100%.
If you don't use a manual gearbox in games, you can leave the clutch unassigned. A clutch that jitters at rest can still cause problems if a game reads it, so unassign it if it's not working well.
Mounting and pedal feel
Pedals that slide or tip as you press give inconsistent readings, especially under heavy braking. Mount them securely to a rig or use a mat or wall stop so they stay in place.
If your readings vary between tests, check the mount before blaming the sensor. A pedal that moves on the floor can make a healthy sensor look faulty.
Calibrating in the maker's software
Most wheel makers provide software for calibrating pedals and setting the range. Run calibration there first, then use this test to check the result. The pedal should read 0% at rest and 100% at the end of its travel.
If calibration doesn't stick, or the readings change from day to day, the sensor may be failing. Note the readings each time you test so you can see whether it's getting worse.
Load cell brake force
With a load cell brake, the reading depends on how hard you press. Most software lets you set how much force counts as a full press. A lower setting makes the brake easier to fully press; a higher one gives more control but
needs a firmer foot.
Use this test to check that your chosen force setting gives a full 100% when you press as hard as you'd brake in a race, not harder.
Brake pressure and lock-ups
In racing games, braking too hard locks the wheels, and the pedal reading tells you how hard you're pressing. Watching the percentage while practising braking helps you learn how much pressure gives the best stopping without locking up.
Load cell brakes make this easier to learn, because your muscle memory works on pressure rather than travel.
Inverted pedals
Some pedals mount upside down, hanging from above like in a real car. If your pedals report in reverse, look for an invert option in the game or the pedal software.
Check here that each pedal reads 0% at rest and 100% when pressed after inverting.
Pedals for flight simulators
Rudder pedals for flight simulators work similarly but often have a single rudder axis plus separate toe brakes. Each appears as a separate axis. Test each one the same way as racing pedals.
Cleaning and maintenance
Pedals sit on the floor, where they collect dust and dirt. Clean them regularly and check the springs and mounts. A squeaking or sticking pedal often just needs cleaning and a little lubricant on the moving parts, not the sensor.
Never spray lubricant onto the sensor itself.
Buying used pedals
When buying second-hand pedals, test each one from rest to full press several times and watch for dead spots and jitter. Check the readings at rest are steady and that full presses reach 100%. Look at the springs and mounts for damage.
Ask what type of sensor the pedals use. Hall effect and load cell pedals generally age better than potentiometer pedals.
Pedal sensitivity curves
Many games and wheel software let you set a sensitivity curve for each pedal. A curve can make the start of the pedal's travel more precise for gentle throttle control, or make the brake respond more gradually. Set curves after checking the raw readings here, so you're starting from a healthy pedal.
Upgrading pedals
Upgrading the brake is often the biggest improvement for sim racers. Many players move from potentiometer pedals to load cell brakes and find their braking becomes much more consistent. If you're upgrading, test the new pedals here when they arrive to make sure everything works.
Common problems
Your pedals are in combined mode. Change it in the wheel's software.
Some pedal sets report the clutch only with the manufacturer's software installed.
Frequently asked questions
What is a pedal deadzone?
A small range at the start or end of the pedal's travel that the game ignores, so worn pedals still read cleanly 0% and 100%.
Do I need the wheel's software?
Not to test. It may be needed to change pedal modes.
Why does my brake only reach 90%?
Recalibrate first. With a load cell brake, you may need to press harder or lower the force setting.
Can I test pedals without the wheel?
If they connect separately by USB, yes. If they plug into the wheel, connect the wheel too.
What deadzone should I use?
Just above the reading at rest, and as small as possible.
Why do my pedals jitter?
Usually a worn or dirty sensor, or a loose cable.
Do Hall effect pedals need calibrating?
Occasionally, especially after moving them or updating firmware.
Why does my pedal read differently each day?
A failing sensor, loose mount or cable can cause it. Recalibrate and check the mount.