Controller Health Check

Instead of running six separate tests, the health check takes you through all of them in one go: buttons, sticks, triggers, vibration, motion sensors and battery. At the end you get a score out of 100 and a report you can save or share.

It's built for anyone checking a controller before buying it second-hand, before selling one, or after a repair. It's also a quick way to find out what's actually wrong when a controller just feels off.

Controller Health Check

Test buttons, sticks, triggers, vibration, motion and battery. Get a complete 100-point diagnostic report.

Connect your controller, then press every face button, rotate both sticks in full circles, and pull both triggers.

Buttons Registered0 / 16
Stick Center Drift—
Triggers (L2 / R2)0% / 0%
Vibration MotorsUntested
Motion / GyroWaiting
Overall Health Score— / 100
Test result: Ready when you are. Connect your controller and run the test above.

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What to do next

Use the result above to decide whether to re-test, calibrate, repair, or replace your controller.

How to use it

  1. Connect the controller by USB or Bluetooth and press any button.
  2. Press Start health check. The page tells you what to do at each step.
  3. Press every button when asked, then move each stick in a full circle and let it rest.
  4. Squeeze both triggers slowly all the way, then release.
  5. Feel for vibration when the page triggers the motors, and confirm whether each side worked.
  6. Tilt the controller if it has motion sensors. Battery level is read automatically where the controller reports it.
  7. Review your score. Use Save as PDF or Copy link to keep or share the report.

What your results mean

Each part is scored, then combined into one number.

Score What it means

90–100 Excellent. Everything works as it should.

70–89 Good. Minor wear, usually slight stick drift or a weaker trigger. Fine for everyday play.

50–69 Worn. One or more parts are failing. Check the details to see which.

Under 50 Faulty. Several parts failed. Repair or replace before relying on it.

What each part checks

Part Checks

Buttons Every button registers when pressed and releases fully

Sticks Drift at rest, return to centre, and circularity

Triggers Full travel from 0 to 100% with no jumps

Vibration Both motors respond (Chrome or Edge needed)

Motion Gyro responds, on controllers that have it

Battery Charge level, where the controller reports it

Parts your controller or browser can't report are skipped and don't lower your score.

Buying or selling a used controller

Second-hand controllers are good value, but faults like slight drift, a weak trigger or a tired battery are easy to miss in a quick look. The health check catches them in two minutes, before money changes hands.

If you're selling, a report link in your listing shows buyers exactly what they're getting. If you're buying, ask the seller to run it, or run it yourself when you collect the controller. Either way, both sides see the same result.

Which controllers and browsers work

The health check works with any controller your browser can detect. That includes PlayStation DualSense and DualShock 4, Xbox Series and Xbox One controllers, the Switch Pro Controller, Joy-Con, and most PC controllers from brands like 8BitDo, GameSir, PowerA and Razer.

Chrome and Edge on a computer give the most complete check, because they can trigger vibration and read extra data from some controllers. Firefox and Safari can test buttons, sticks and triggers, but parts they can't read are skipped automatically, so your score isn't lowered unfairly.

Browser Buttons, sticks, triggers Vibration Motion sensors

Chrome / Edge (computer) Yes Yes On supported controllers

Firefox Yes Limited Limited

Safari Yes No No

Phone browsers Often Rarely Rarely

How the score is worked out

Each part of the controller gets its own score, and the overall score is a weighted average. Sticks and buttons carry the most weight because they affect every game. Vibration and motion carry less, because some players turn them off and some games don't use them.

A single serious fault always pulls the score down sharply, even if everything else is perfect. A controller with a dead button can't score in the 90s, because that one button may be the one your favourite game depends on. The detailed results show which part caused the drop, so you know exactly what to fix.

What to do with your result

If you scored 90 or more, the controller is in great shape. Save the report if you plan to sell it, since it's an easy way to show buyers its condition.

Between 70 and 89, look at which part lost points. Slight stick drift can usually be hidden with a deadzone, and the Deadzone Calculator tells you the right value. A slightly weak trigger or button is often improved by cleaning.

Below 70, something is genuinely failing. Check whether the controller is still under warranty before doing anything else, then use the Repair or Replace calculator to decide whether a fix is worth it.

Using the report when buying or selling

When buying a used controller online, ask the seller to run the check and send you the report link before you pay. The report shows the date and controller type, so an old or unrelated report is easy to spot. If you're collecting in person, take a laptop or ask to run it on the seller's computer.

When selling, include the report link in your listing. Buyers are much more confident when they can see that the sticks don't drift and every button works, and it reduces arguments after the sale if both of you saw the same results.

Understanding each test

The health check runs several short tests in a row. Each looks at one part of the controller and gives a pass, a warning or a fail. The overall score combines them, but the individual results tell you exactly what needs attention.

A warning isn't a fault. It means something is measurably less than perfect, such as a stick resting slightly off centre, but still within the range most games handle without trouble.

How often to check your controller

There's no need to test constantly. A quick check when you first get a controller, and again whenever something feels wrong in a game, is enough for most players. If you play competitively, testing every so often lets you catch

wear before it costs you a match.

Because results are saved in your browser, you can compare today's result with an earlier one and see whether anything has changed.

Health check for different controller types

The same checks work on PlayStation, Xbox, Switch and most third-party controllers, but not every controller reports every feature to a browser. Battery level, for example, is only available on some controllers and connections. When a feature can't be read, the test is skipped rather than failed.

If a skipped test matters to you, check it on the console or in the maker's software instead.

Getting the most accurate result

Use a cable if you can, since it removes wireless dropouts that can look like faults. Close any other programs that use the controller, such as Steam or remapping tools, before starting. Put the controller down and leave the sticks alone during the drift test.

If a result surprises you, run the check again. A genuine fault shows up every time; a one-off result usually means something was touched during the test.

What a perfect score doesn't tell you

The check measures how the controller reports its inputs. It can't see things like a cracked shell, a loose battery cover or worn grips, so give the controller a quick look as well, especially when buying second-hand.

It also can't predict the future. A controller that passes today may still develop drift later, which is why a saved result is useful to compare against.

Common problems

A button isn't registering

Press it firmly a few times. If it still fails, try our Button Test for more detail.

Vibration was skipped

Vibration testing needs Chrome or Edge. Safari can't trigger controller vibration.

Battery shows as unknown

Some controllers don't report battery level to the browser, especially over USB.

I want to compare after cleaning or repair

Run the check again. Your previous result is saved in this browser so you can compare.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use this to check a used controller before buying?

Yes. Ask the seller to run it and send you the report link, or run it yourself when you collect it.

Is the score a guarantee?

No. It's a quick, practical check of how the controller behaves right now, not a manufacturer test.

Does the shared report include personal information?

No. It only contains the test results, the controller type and the date.

Which controllers work?

Any controller your browser detects: PlayStation, Xbox, Switch Pro, 8BitDo, GameSir and most PC controllers.

How long does it take?

Around two minutes.

Can I run the health check on my phone?

You can try, but phone browsers often can't read controllers fully. A computer with Chrome or Edge gives the most reliable result.

Why was my vibration test skipped?

Your browser can't control vibration on this controller. Use Chrome or Edge on a computer to include it.

Does cleaning a controller improve the score?

Often, yes. Dust and grime around the sticks and buttons cause many minor faults. Clean it, then run the check again to compare.

How long is the shared report link valid?

The report stays available so buyers can check it later. It doesn't include personal information.

Can I check two controllers at once?

Run them one after the other. Each gets its own report.

Why does the score change between runs?

Small changes are normal. Large changes usually mean something was moved during a test.

Does a warning mean I should replace the controller?

No. It means that part is worth watching. Many controllers with warnings work fine for years.

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